![]() So how did this special, protective layer get damaged in the first place? The usual suspects are any harsh cleaners that contain chlorides like fluorine, chlorine, bromine and iodine, as well as cleaners that contain alcohol or ammonia.įor everyday cleaning, your stainless steel appliances don’t require any heavy-duty products or solutions. Plus, this layer can repair itself with a little care! The good news: The rust is only at surface level and can be cleaned off. This layer is what protects stainless steel from staining and rusting. The bad news: If your stainless steel appliances have rust spots, it’s most likely due to damage of the chromium oxide layer. The stickers all have text and graphics to represent the range of operating costs within a category look for a model with a cost on the lower end of the scale.Aside from giving your kitchen a sleek, modern look, one of the many benefits of having stainless steel appliances is their ability to stay mostly “stainless.” If your appliances are showing any signs of rust, don’t fret! We have a few friendly cleaning solutions to help you remove the rust and keep your suite looking sweet.įirst up, we have bad news and good news. When in doubt, check the yellow Energy Guide sticker on any model to get an idea of its energy consumption and estimated costs of operation.These fridges are big enough to help minimize shopping trips, they might reduce the amount of time you spend looking for items, and they are compact enough to save some energy. Wide but shallow fridges, like counter-depth French-door models, might represent a happy medium.You can find a few models with door dispensers on the Energy Star Most Efficient list, but they’re the exception. It’s usually a difference of a few dozen kilowatt-hours per year compared with fridges of a similar size and style. Through-the-door ice and water dispensers tend to make a fridge less efficient, partly because they’re essentially a hole in an otherwise insulated box, and partly because the ice maker has extra work to do.Side-by-side fridges are the least efficient style.You can take the doors off the fridge to get a few extra inches, but there are some fridges that you just cannot get inside of certain kitchens. A single-door fridge (like a top-freezer or bottom-freezer model), with the hinge on the opposite side from the wall, might be your best bet. ![]() If your fridge will sit close to a wall, think about whether the door will be able to swing open wide enough for you to pull out crisper drawers or deli trays. In this situation, a counter-depth model, or one with half-width doors (like a French-door or side-by-side model) might make the most sense. If you have a kitchen island, measure the distance from the wall to the edge of that counter to account for the door swing. The layout of the rest of your kitchen matters, too. That can hurt its ability to hold the proper temperatures and might wear out the cooling system faster than its intended lifespan (usually 10 years, according to most manufacturers we’ve talked to). If you jam your fridge in tighter, the fridge’s heat exchange might have to work harder than it was designed to. Make it about 1 inch on the top and sides and at least 2 inches at the back. Build in some buffer space for ventilation. ![]() Remember to measure any baseboards or trim. Seriously-take multiple measurements of each dimension in case your floors turn out to be crooked. ![]()
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